Amtech NC-559-V2-TF No-Clean Tacky Flux USA (30cc)

Product Information

A plunger is to push on the piston and not necessary snuggly fitting air syringe, a plunger can be loose. Can wash it off with regular old food-grade alcohol and a soft brass or similar brush, which I like because I don't think every component can stand up to acetone, which is another often suggested solvent. edit: ehhh it's conductive even when non activated, check comments below for more details, I probably wouldn't recommend it knowing this. A plunger is to push on the piston and not necessarily snuggly fitting AMTECH syringe, a plunger can be loose.

DIY soldering flux, get an IPA and mix with violin's rosin as its already cleaned and filtered, all of these ingredient are cheap and easily sourced. The only time I use extra flux, is when I'm forced to use old components or boards which are badly oxidised.OEM means no overheads due to shiny labels, labor for retail blister-box packaging, or Intellectual Property licensing overheads - a bare minimum chemical for in-house labeling. Reddit and its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a better experience. The activated residue is clear and non-corrosive - can be left on board for multiple SMT assemblies (manufacturer recommends cleaning all flux residues at all times to avoid board contamination or voltage leakage on circuits with high impedance, also non-activated residue may absorb moisture from the air and subsequently cause corrosion). When it comes to soldering Sn60/Sn62/Sn63 leaded MT alloys using Hot Air station the V2 formulation would be one of the first choices for the handcraft/hobby/rework - V2 chemistry instantly wets Sn/Pb MT alloys but most importantly it has sufficient body to withstand rework with Hot Air station for extended period of time. Chipquik is stated as non conductive, would be interesting to see if your flux is conductive and how residue acts under heat and humidity etc.

Repair technicians know most of their parts come from China, so they figure they are getting a better deal by avoiding a middleman. Putting that expertise to good use, we decided to start RetroSix; a small team of people passionate about retro gaming, and restoring original consoles to like-new, adding our own twist and style to them and in general bringing a modern twist to retro.Quote from: BravoV on April 09, 2018, 10:28:40 am DIY soldering flux, get an IPA and mix with violin's rosin as its already cleaned and filtered, all of these ingredient are cheap and easily sourced. It's fake, but it's flux, unless you are in industry where you need to strictly control your process it will be just fine. We are taking the first steps in the industry to actively replace product lines with reclaimed parts. I spent almost a whole day looking through different offers now (wasted would be a more appropriate expression), so I'm now turning to you and would kindly ask about some recommendations.

The conductivity test is absolutely nonsense: it should be done AFTER the flux has been activated ; it is also true that I _always_ wash my boards with IPA. The issue was it was super expensive, heavily cloned so very difficult to find a good supplier, and it was imported. No-clean” indicates that the product requires cleaning method as defined by IPC no-clean standard and does not mean that the flux leaves no residue.

Probably the brush material is the same, but most of the water brush pens does not have a double chamber, like Bonkote. I would not say that makes it a bad choise - it simply makes it a more unpredictable choise in terms of what to expect. Fully translucent thick rosin-rich solder chemistry leaves clear residue easy to evaporate with hot air, cleaned using isopropanol, industrial solvents, ultrasonic scrubbers, or vapor degreasers. So many things these days are mass produced, not designed to last, and make as cheap as possible for as much money as possible.

I guess the "dodgy" flux that probably part of it contained dissolved/cooked flour,rice or corn powder for making it jelly like or gelatinous form, is good for your pcb and components. I mean if I purchased a product with a fake label, it's really my fault for not doing my homework well enough to spot the difference.No-clean fluxes are easily removed using solvents in ultrasonic devices or using commercially available flux residue removers. If you've created a bridge, need to solder a jumper in a small area, or are reflowing a chip to try and remove corrosion - good flux will make your life easier.