SANI SEAL BL01 Toilet Gasket, Others, 1

Product Information

The post that you have commented on describes one type of leak which I presume you have decided is not happening to your toilet. Some people like to apply sealing compounds to the seals and rubber rings used to make watertight connections. I find that when parts are new or undamaged there’s no need. Rubber rings are used because they seal well as long as they are seated correctly and have the right amount of pressure applied when tightened. As the installation is only hand-tight, you may find that you need to re-tighten regularly. If the threads start to strip, further re-tightening may become impossible. If the plumbing is up to date the Fill Valve of the cistern will be connected via a flexible connector with a built in Stop Tap. See Pic. 4 below. Pic. 4. Inline Fill Pipe Stop Tap Pic. 4a. Inline Stop Tap in the ON position. Pic. 4b. Inline Stop Tap in the OFF position. Once the wax-free seal is in place, just lower the toilet onto the flange, and the ring seals as it compresses. There’s no need to worry about temperature. The material’s flexibility compensates for imperfect placement of the toilet while still forming a perfect seal. You can reposition the toilet several times without needing a new ring as you would with wax. You’ll still need to ensure the toilet is firmly seated. If the seal doesn’t compress enough to let the weight of the toilet rest on the floor, you’ll end up with a wobbly toilet that puts too much weight on the flange.

Uneven floor surfaces are no problem and the rubber seal will flex in line with toilet movement over time.Modern close coupled toilets often have two holes in the cistern for fitting stainless steel bolts with rubber washers. These are tightened to the cistern to prevent them leaking. In between these bolts is the hole for fitting the outlet valve. When fitted it’s nut is covered with a spongy rubber gasket. This product will work for flange heights from ½” above the floor to 1½” below the floor. The generous below the floor range could make this a good choice for underset flanges. The first sign of a problem was the water on the floor around the base of the closet pan. There was not a lot and fortunately it was clear and without a smell. I cleaned it up but it kept reappearing. The Signs of Leaking Water The Paths Taken By The Leaking Water Pic. 1. This Shows Possible Paths For The Leaking Water Pic. 1 suggests what paths the leaking water took to get from the cistern to the floor. Older plates were made of rust-able steel. They may have been painted, pressed from tin-plate, electroplated or galvanised but they rusted nonetheless. Look at the position and height of the flange, the width of the waste pipe and whether or not the floor is level. The recommended position for a flange is ¼ “ above floor level. However, you might find that your flange is higher or lower than this. Some seal kits include extenders that offer a solution to flanges that are set lower than the floor.

I have had past experience of my toilet leaking water from the coupling between the cistern and closet pan. In this case I guessed correctly that a leaky coupling was the source of the water. How did I guess: well the toilet has been in place since at least 2007, that’s 12 years. I can’t remember if I’ve already changed the coupling on this toilet in those 12 years but I certainly did on the previous one installed in the mid 1980s. That suggests 10 to 12 years is as long as they last when the plate can rust away. When the cistern is lifted off the closet pan it may be dirty. The best place for working on it might be outside. Turn it upside down to drain any water out of it and place it on something soft to protect the porcelain. If it’s a dry day place it direct on a lawn, otherwise use some corrugated cardboard or an old towel on a concrete area. The cistern should not overflow into the overflow pipe unless the water level goes above the line in the cistern. It’s a truly wax-free product so it has none of the downsides of a traditional wax ring but still provides a snug, reliable seal that is flexible enough to allow for some movement over time without requiring constant re-tightening. Finally the screws which hold the cistern up against the wall should be re-fitted. These screws should be made of a none corrosive metal. Usually brass screws are used but stainless steel screws are just as good. I have obtained some No. 12 × 2½” brass screws, see Pic. 14& 15a, from SCREWS LINE to replace my old steel ones. I also managed to cover them with the original Screw Caps, see Pic. 15b, which work as a cushion between screw head and porcelain. Pic. 14. New Brass Screws To Hold The Cistern To The Wall Pic. 14. New No. 12 × 2½” Brass Screws To Hold The Cistern To The Wall. Pic. 15. Cistern Hung With Brass Screws & Capped Pic. 15a. Cistern Hung With No. 12 × 2½” Brass Screws. Pic. 15b. Cistern No. 12 × 2½” Hanging Screws Capped. 10. Reconnect The Water Supply

If (1b) then the flushing mechanism may not have a good seal where it fits against the inside of the cistern with a sealing washer such that the water leaks out of the cistern continuously.

Not only does the coupling plate get extremely wet but the bolts and wingnuts do too. They can get so rusted that they become difficult to undo when it’s time to effect a repair. The solution is to grease them well during installation. Your toilet may be filling up with too much water and overflowing. If it is overflowing it will not stop filling and you will hear a filling noise coming from the pipes all the time. You can test this by turning off the water supply to the toilet. There may be a tap/valve near to your toilet specially to do that, or you may have to turn off the water at the main stop valve where the pipe comes into your property. If the noise stops when the water is completely turned off, you can assume that the inlet valve in the toilet is always open because the water level in the cistern can’t rise high enough to shut it off. If not rusted, wing nuts may be loosened by hand. A leather glove may be needed. Either wing nuts or hexagonal nuts can be undone with an adjustable wrench or gas pliers. You have to use whatever tool fits into the available space. It can be hard to see whats happening. The ability to work blind may be required when the toilet is in the corner of a room say. 5. Removing The Outlet Valve From The Leaking Toilet Cistern Brett's the kind of guy you'd never peg as having such an amazing yard. He's shy and private, avoiding social media and the spotlight. By day, Brett works quietly as an electrician technician, helping folks with wiring and repairs.Remove the outlet valve from the cistern (it secures the coupling plate) and discard the old coupling plate and doughnut seal; This cookie, set by YouTube, registers a unique ID to store data on what videos from YouTube the user has seen. NOTE: The leaking water often runs around the toilet outlet giving the impression that it is a sewage leak when its not. Why Was My Toilet Leaking Fresh Water? If particles of rubber have broken off the old sealing ring then carefully scrape them away from the valve flange and the perimeter of the cistern hole. Then reseal with a new sealing ring.

The design is unintuitive and the instructions are unclear. In particular, it isn’t clear enough that you can remove the hard plastic ring to adjust the fit.

Then when the cistern is lowered onto the closet pan the bolts pass through the anchoring holes and the valve passes into a central hole in the pan. When the bolts are anchored to it with nuts steel washers and rubber washers the rubber gasket is squashed to seal the central hole. The rubber gasket plays the same part as the doughnut in older toilet models. These newer toilets have the benefit of not requiring a metal plate and so don’t suffer from it corroding. Old Coupling Methods May Leak Eventually At this stage the cistern lid is still off but the green and white flushing buttons on the top of the flush valve will be accessible for testing. In these situations, you’ll need to remove the old wax seal and install a new one. That requires applying enough indirect heat to soften the wax so that you can scrape it off. It’s a messy job, especially if two wax seals were used.