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Posted 20 hours ago

Macdee Dual Flush Outlet Valve

£9.9£99Clearance
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ZTS2023
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The wife has even hinted that we might partake in some extra curricular activities tonight, thanks to me saving a plumbers bill. Inspect the large rubber washer on the base, has it fallen off; is it caked in limescale or other crud; inspect (for limescale) the edges of the base that has remained in the cistern. this is the cistern with the top off and you can see where the wire comes through and goes between those 2 white bits of plastic(which are cylindrical) but i can't work out how it holds it together? I then used a pencil to poke down the same hole and wiggle the small blue lever until it happily sprung back cleanly again.

regarding fitting I assume I need to turn off the water - do I have to turn off the stopcock under the sink and then drain the attic tank (e. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. I can't imagine the bolt is threaded into the bowl directly though - is there a plastic fitting glued to the base unit perhaps? The unit is a Macdee AFV40100 flush valve - I can't see any markings on the inlet side, so I don't know who the manufacturer of that is - I assume the same. This will be much easier if you have disconnected the push button end of the cable too so you have plenty of slack.Remove the cable connection from the valve, you usually need to press a bar on the side of the mechanism.

somhairle wrote:The cistern top simply lifts off but the attached hose prevents it from being set aside. There is one red wheel on a pipe connected to the bottom of the tank, and another (red also) on one at around shoulder height. After unscrewing the two philips screws on the grey box and opening it up the insides came apart which make me wonder if the spring had unhooked itself from the white piece. which looked to have identical fittings, could I replace just the valve that I removed with another version (rather than the base as well, as if that needed replacing I wouldn't bother), are the bases on them a universal fit? I've been noticing a constant trickle of water running down the back of the toilet bowl for the last month or so, it comes down in four separate places along the back.Further, if this doesnt solve your problem, at the other end of the cable is the actual valve mechanism. Although on my flush the smaller level indicator on the side of the unit was the trouble as it was sticking and preventing the plunger from going down far enough, you can ensure it is operating ok by making sure the that the bottom of the plunger is down a good 1 ins from the unit casing, if not it means the plunger is still sticking and the water will still run thru it into the toilet pan,so just make sure its 1 ins .

I have had a look at the valve inside the cistern, but was not sure how to disconnect the hose - or the valve for that matter. And when it comes to turning the whole body of the valve, I said anti-clockwise - but looking at your pictures it could be clockwise. Maybe this bit was overkill but I also disconnected the cable on both ends and cleaned the visible parts - the was some gunk and, after taking the spray diffuser off the WD40 can I forced a whole load of WD40 down inside the cable sheath - again pulling the cable a couple of dozen times to move the WD40 around.

Use the tools cog symbol on your camera/phone/tablet to set the smallest image size, then post a picture. You can save on the squirting a bit by opening the little plastic box (one small Philips screw and a bit of levering) and getting at the cable directly, but before you open it look carefully at how much of the cable outer is showing.

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