Todays Tools Plumb Tub

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This may be caused by movement in the base. It can also be caused by poor application of the sealant. If so, remove the sealant and redo it taking care to ensure that the joint is clean and free from debris and that the sealant fills the void between tray and tiles. Pooling of water in the shower. In our example here we have had to remove a chunk of the floor as it was rotten so this has given us a good heads up on how the existing waste runs. A hole will also need to be cut for your shower tray wasteso take some accurate measurements and very carefully start creating the space you need. Once this is done you can go ahead and assemble the waste itself. Step 4 - Lay Mortar Alternatively, if the pipes and waste are above the floor, you’ll need a raised shower tray. They have a high outer lip, and the base of the tray is raised above the floor to accommodate the plumbing pipes and the wastes underneath.

The time it takes to fit a shower tray, and enclosure will depend on the job's complexity. But typically, a qualified plumber will take 1-2 days. The work may involve dismantling and removing the old shower enclosure and tray (if there is one), preparing the floor, fitting the tray, making adjustments for low-profile shower tray installation on a solid floor if necessary, and fitting the enclosure panels. Once the tray and enclosure are installed, the walls and floor can be tiled, and the shower can be fitted. With the tiles removed the wall was also inspected closely. Again, long term moisture ingress had caused considerable damage so we also pulled a section of wall away and replaced it.The compression joint screw cap was then tightened pinch tight to secure the waste pipe in place. Advice on plastic compression wastes and how they go together can be seen in our project here. It is highly important to fix the tray to the floor firmly and prevent any movement. If any movement occurs, even very slight, over time, not only will any sealing around the tray fail but it will also loosen the waste and cause leaks. A small channel was also cut at the front of the hole as the waste connection protruded out of the waste by a few inches. In answer to whether you should install a raised or flat shower tray, it depends on a few things – the type of floor you are installing on to, location of the existing waste if there is one and how much space there is available for the tray waste.

If the pipes and waste are below the floor, you can choose any height of shower tray. However, the most popular choice is a low-profile or flat, flush-fitting shower tray. Both trays sit flush to the floor, but the flat tray has no lip around the edge, while the low-profile tray has a small outer lip. Both allow easy access to the shower and create a minimalist, contemporary look.

Adjustable Height Shower Tray

Contrary to our advice we have actually gone for a tray with a centre waste as opposed to a left hand waste, but as they both run along pretty much the same line we can easily use the existing waste. Once the silicone has cured you can then fix in place the remaining tiles. Don’t be tempted to tile right down to the tray, leave a 2-3mm gap. Allow the tile adhesive to cure for at least 24 hours to ensure its gone off properly. Once marked, remove the tray and put it to one side and then cut out the waste hole. In this case we cut a 6 inch hole to allow the waste to sit nicely with a slight gap around it. Tighten it so that it is “pinch” tight e.g. tighten it as much as you can by hand and then one final turn to pinch it up and seal it. You don’t need to over tighten it! Simply drill a 57mm hole in the soil pipe, coat the inside face of the boss with silicone and clip it in place.

Before replacing any sections of floor a good idea is to test the waste and make sure there are no leaks. Using a jug, fill the waste up and continue to pour water it (a second helping had would be good here).

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The shower tray waste trap was then fixed in place on the tray. This was just a simple matter of unscrewing the top section, positioning the main cup section and seal under the tray and then screwing the top section and seal down. Once the grout has cured you can then seal up the gap between the top of eth tray and the tiles. Use a suitable silicone, in this case we used Everbuild Forever White as we find it to be really good.

All trays are acrylic capped and constructed from a polyurethane resin mixed with filler including clay beads making them the strongest and lightest available A bathroom’s size and layout will often dictate the type of shower tray and shower tray sizes that can be installed. For example, space-saving square and quadrant-shaped shower trays best suit small bathrooms and ensuites. But larger bathrooms can accommodate more spacious rectangular and offset quadrant shower trays. Also, consider if there’s enough space in the bathroom for the type of enclosure door you want. For example, a hinged door needs space to open, while a sliding door doesn’t. We provide a regular delivery service throughout the West Midlands by our own team and use the service of an independent courier for our customer’s from all other regions to ensure we provide a timely service. Our plumbers merchant sales counter offers a friendly professional service to all visitors both trade and retail. Turning a low-profile shower tray into a raised one by using a shower tray riser kit is possible. This consists of adjustable legs and clip-on side covers which conceal the legs and pipe work. These covers can be removed easily as and when needed to gain access to the pipes.The final task once the internal sealing is done is to then seal the gap at the front between the shower tray and the floor. Acrylic shower traysare popular when choosing a shower. They are durable, water-resistant, and extra safe with their natural non-slip resistance. They are also very lightweight which is ideal when upgrading a bathroom as most flooring can withstand it. These shower trays are great for those looking for little maintenance and a clean finish. Installing or fitting a shower tray is very much dependent on the type of tray you are installing and the surface it’s being installed on. In this case we used a prying bar to gently lever the front of the tray up by gently working your way around the front edge, loosening it as you go. As the tray was old, the adhesive was beginning to fail so after a little work it came away easily The first job is now seal up the gap between the shower tray and the wall. Using some suitable sanitary silicone, run a bead around both edges of the tray that butt up to the wall and then dampen your finger and use it to force the silicone down into the joint and then leave to cure.