SHIMANO Special grease for pawl-type Freehub bodies 50 g,White

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Hi BobDopolina, do you also like the Kluber grease for freehubs that have needle bearings and can it also be used with cone and bearing hubs like Shimano. BTW in the procedure I outlined in the post above, after having used the thing for a couple of weeks with oil in , you service the hub bearings like you were going to do anyway. So you can have grease in the main bearings, and a different lube in the freehub if you want. With most shimano and shimano clone freehubs, whatever lube is in the RH hub bearing ends up in the freehub body, provided it is fluid enough. It will even reduce friction on Campa's much touted CULT bearings which are quieted down by a parafin based oil. A neat solution but it's actually adding friction..... Chris King’s ratchet slides on angled splines in the hub rather than the straight in and out ones of DT Swiss’s hubs.

I prefer a lighter lubricant during colder months and a little heavier lubricant in the heat of summer. Dumonde Tech makes a freehub light oil and a grease. You can also use Dumonde Tech Liquid Grease. Shimano and Mavic also make freehub lubes. One of my favorites that is no longer available is Paul Morningstar's Electric Lube which is more of a very light grease.audiophilitis wrote:DT Swiss makes a star rachet-specific grease for use on their hubs. I had a relatively loud DT 190 hub which was silenced by a light coat of this grease. DT part number is HXTXXX00NSG20S. I don't know about your specific lube of choice, but I do know that I've seen people with lube in their freehubs that gets so viscous when below freezing for long enough that it DOES prevent the pawls from engaging so the whole system just spins. As soon as it thawed, everything was fine.

Anyone who looked into the drag of a RW with or without the effect of the added freewheel will agree that the additional drag brought on by almost all freehubs is not subtle. There are two types of springs currently in use; multiple small coil springs and single-circle clip springs. The former are found in older Hope and older Campagnolo hubs. The latter is used in newer hubs from Hope, Campagnolo and a host of other manufacturers. I recall being told that you should apply a thin film of grease to the outside of the freehub body before installing a new cassette...but now I can't actually find any authoritative confirmation of this! What are some of the most common lubricating misconceptions riders have? What mistakes do you often see in the bike shop? It is important to distinguish between shimano style freehub bodies and the others, where the freewheel body rotates on the axle using its own set of bearings, which is what I presume you have.

IMHO it is definitely a bad idea to use a #2 grease in a freehub body. It dramatically increases the chances of only one pawl engaging (instead of both) and If the freehub slips even once under load, it can be broken. If the motion gets freer by virtue of the grease thinning, the same thing would be required every time you ride the bike or even start pedalling again having freewheeled for the first time after a long climb or whatever. You think you are free and clear and it just takes the grease to dry out a bit or the weather to turn cold and you are in the poop again. It is most likely that the grease is pushed out of the way when the freehub appears to be working normally; needless to say it is a far better idea not to put it in there in the first place. Unfortunately it's not very clear which grease and additives is best, because bicycles are different from lots of other applications in that speeds are quite low, and temperatures not too high. Durability is likely to be important. Next job – clean and lube the freehub. It's sounding a bit gritty, I have to take the wheel off anyway, and I've never seen the inside of a freehub, so… It's possible that the freehub has worn out, but if not, you definitely don't want grease in there as it gums up the mechanism. There is a reason why I know this...