YORKING Brake Pipe Repair Kit 3/16" Pipe Flaring Tool Kit 25FT Car Brake Line 10mm Replacement Cutter Bender Brake Line Repair Kit for Car Original Braking System

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Support the brake hose end of the fitment with an ordinary spanner to stop it rotating, there is a flat cut into the cylindrical steel ferrule of the brake hose for you to do this (see photo to left). Our brake fitting kits include all the bits necessary to fit replacement parts, including all the required clips, springs, pins and bolts.

You can leave brake systems sealed like this for very long periods without them dripping and without having to worry about dirt or water getting into the system. As has been said, your first issue will be trying to flare the current steel lines if you chose to cut and splice in a piece. Compact European Pressure Brake Bleeder, perfect for a direct fit to you MINI master cylinder to bleed the system after replacing the lines. I'm not too worried about the lifespan of the tool, I only need it once but I need the flares to be perfect - I'll need them a lot longer!Description says "Brake tube kit is made of high-quality flexible brass, durable, convenient, and won't rust. When you reach the junction box at the front, make the final bend before measuring and cutting the pipe (see photo to left). This one was so badly made it necked the pipe just under the flare - actually caused a failure on my race car. I don’t know of any manufacturers that use compression fittings on brake lines, another vote against for me. In cars built after about 1960 you will only ever find double SAE (imperial) or single DIN (metric) flares.

but copper grease has never caused me any issues unless I've accidentally allowed it to contaminate the pipes. Many people have already helped others through this site by contributing information and techniques. Some fixings are of the simple clip type and can be sprung simply by pulling the brake pipe away from the fixing (Type 1 and 3), some have to be levered open before the brake pipes can be sprung lose (Type 2), some can be removed after you have the brake pipe out (Type 5) and some on the rear pipes are held in by a screw bolt fixing (Type 4). Its been parked up on his drive since the line split, I don't think the brakes work for a second time after you rupture the line anyway.

You can leave it on your hands for quite some time during a repair, but it will eventually make them red and itchy. However, often you don't get this lucky, and be aware that your brake pipe may snap at the fitting so make sure there is a basin under it to catch any stray drips of brake fluid and some rags .

The easiest way to do this is to place the fitment and flare the end of one end in the brake pipe (ready to be attached to the car), but to leave the other end un-flared and sealed with tape. The metric Din looks like a bubble, but the imperial SAE looks like a cocktail glass (see photo to left). Now it is just a case of working backwards from the rear of the car to the front making bends and fastening the pipe into the body fixings as you go.So if you're in the same situation as me with a failed MOT, before you go ahead and replace the brake pipes try cleaning them up in situ - check them carefully, but they could be fine. This was a surprise for two reasons; (1) There had been no advisory on last year's MOT and (2) I had only just bought the car and had thoroughly checked it over only a few months previously. You can usually achieve this by careful bending, but if you can't just place a Type 5 body fixing anywhere it is likely to rub against a metal part. First locate the rear fitment of the brake pipe you will be replacing - this is where the brake pipe terminates in a fitting with the rubber brake hose that goes into your brake caliper.

The car is a merc W204 2008, I take it the line is one piece all the way from the front to the back? That said, bleeding brakes is simpler and quicker if all four wheels are off the ground and accessible, so for the reasons given in the recommendations section of this guide, if possible I'd always get the car completely off the ground anyway. That brake pipe is the longest on the car and to run a new one in the same location I would have had to drop the fuel tank. Even small parts can be replaced with female connectors, allowing you to add parts to the original braking system. Next if you are working on the rear pipes, you need to get under the car and remove the rear section of the underguard tray beneath the engine/transmission (see photo to left).The pipe rotted through where it ducks out of a plastic arch liner, and everything from the liner to the front of the car is sound.