About this deal
In trousers, an interior button tab which releases tension from the main buttons and zipper of the fly. From the very beginning, we discussed the design of the coat as one which could be reversed later on. A durable, somewhat weather-resistant woolen fabric with a rough texture, traditional in Scotland and Ireland but now available worldwide.
There are two benefits that come from French bearers when they are indeed buttoned: First, they help to ensure a perfectly flat front for the trousers, and thus also ensure that drape is even. Second, they take the pressure off the single button or hook at the middle point on the waistband. Some trousers may also have a cloth tab which buttons towards the right and provides additional support, again taking stress off the center. The degree of space in between the collars points at their longest point. Can range from narrow to cutaway. Partly that’s because it’s hard to get a good one off the peg, but mostly it’s because of those two risks: of looking over-smart and anachronistic. It’s fun researching old designs then recreating or reinterpreting them, finding cloths etc. I can’t post a pic but I can post a link to the picture of Mr Laurel that inspired the coat. So there are two different styles, that if you ask me, demand being wore two different ways. And I can see how if you are only familiar with one or the other, you can see why there are two sides to the “bottom button” rule.
Gorge
You can see how that middle option looks in the image above. The coat feels and looks loose, but it’s not hanging completely open. Why is this? Well, primarily because a DB has cloth that overlaps at the front, and therefore when it is not done up, there is an excess of material at the front that can flap around.
Found on the center of the yoke of some dress shirts, this is a small section surrounded by two pleats on either side that allows further room for movement. That’s a reason why sartorial brands trying to market their softer, relaxed sprezz outfits base their marketing on photoshoots of tousle-haire young men out on the town, and not young men in the boardroom. Ambience is nine tenths of the sartorial game. I won’t mention names, but Drake’s is one example. The lowest quality (and least expensive) suit construction method in which the canvas is glued to the fabric and is often only found in the chest area. A trouser fastening mechanism that uses neither belt loops nor suspender buttons. There are adjustable tabs at each hip that are used to tighten or loosen the trouser waist.
an air-brush is a big thing-a-ma-bob or whatcha-callit, full of gas, and when you turn on a little jigger, it causes compressed air to squeeze out, which, in turn, going through a needle—” “That wasn't part of the contract, Mr. Jones,” [… ] Term referring to a garment that has been made almost entirely by hand based on a pattern created exclusively for the customer, often with the stipulation that 50 hours of handwork are necessary to earn the title “bespoke”. The Savile Row Bespoke Association also states that the suit must be made on or around Savile Row itself to be considered truly bespoke. A suit making process similar to bespoke insofar as it requires full canvas construction and a customer-exclusive pattern, but doesn’t necessarily require a minimum level of handwork. A lapel style in which there is a space separating the collar from the lapel at the gorge line. Known as a notch collar in America.
Things of mine I’d put in that category are my Huntsman shooting suit (just too much in every way) and Gieves & Hawkes gilet (not quite functional enough - more on sucesses and failures here). A British term that refers to what Americans call “suspenders.” Sartorially correct braces are pieces of fabric (sometimes silk, sometimes not) that sit on the shoulders and attach to the trousers’ waistband via buttons to hold them up. Clip-on braces are incorrect. This is very odd! Last year I saw a photo of Stan Laurel on the Queen Mary wearing what I later identified as a Polo/Wrap coat which I learned were very popular pre-war.From jig + -er ( agent suffix ). Merriam-Webster's Collegiate Dictionary suggests a possible link to Old High German gīga ( “ fiddle ” ). And a cloth that was soft enough to be happily cinched, but also heavy enough to have drape and flow when untied. Men tend to struggle with it though. We generally tend to prefer everything tied down and buttoned up. So what do you think? Did the experiment work or should it be reversed? I’m erring towards keeping it as it is, but I’m still not entirely sure.