BESNIN 17 Degree Bike Stem, 31.8mm 60mm 70mm 90mm 110mm 130mm MTB Stem Mountain Bike Handlebar Stem for Bicycle, Road Bike, MTB, BMX, Cycling (Aluminum Alloy)

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However, you can still find quill stems on some retro-style fixies and singlespeed bikes, as well as some boutique custom builds or cheaper town bikes. Bike stem standards

Road cyclists have very different priorities to mountain bikers. Likewise competitive racers have different preferences to those who ride recreationally. Road Although this is a general outline, the stem length should be decided based on a complete bike fit. This depends on your torso length, arm length and flexibility. Take into account that frame size will play a large role in determining the correct stem length. When we talk about stem standards here, we’re primarily talking about compatibility with the streerer tube on your bike (measured in inches), but also the handlebar clamp (measured in millimetres).

Older bikes have a 1” steerer but these are becoming rare and any stem to fit these types will be clearly labelled. Regular riders will want a fairly neutral position so will go with a slight rise, say 6° or 7° and a middling length according to their needs and position. Stem length has a big impact on the overall fit and ride of your bike. David Caudery / Immediate Media

Ideally, the stem should be long enough to shift some of the extra weight over to the front wheel to have stability over the steering and to improve grip on the road. Hence, longer stems are best suited for competitive racers who travel at high speed and need that kind of extra stability. Cross-country and leisure oriented mountain bikers are more concerned with fit than handling when it comes to stem length. Competitive cross-country racers generally have stems with a negative angle or drop whereas recreational riders commonly have stems with a slight rise. Comfort and Cruisers The only exception to this handlebar clamp size is the new Deda 35 system which is, you’ve guessed it, 35mm and needs a corresponding bar and stem. On that note, you can also change your stem length to adjust the reach from the saddle to the handlebar.would rise or drop 14 degrees if the steer tube were perpendicular. A "high rise" for some or "deep drop" for others. Quill stems went out of fashion because the contemporary bolt-on stem and fork design is stronger and lighter. It’s easier to manufacture too, because with a quill stem the steerer tube needs to be threaded, with a screw-on top headset bearing.

Don’t forget that you can also probably raise and lower your stem by moving the spacers around on the fork steerer. Often all it takes is to swap a 10mm spacer from being under the stem to being over the stem to make all the difference you need. The majority of riders will appreciate a fairly low angle ie. less than 10° as this gives a fairly neutral position with just a low rise. Leisure riders will appreciate a more upright position. Racers will try to get a low as possible for better aerodynamics. Steering is also affected by stem length; too long and the steering can become slow and wayward while too short and the steering can be twitchy and unnerving. On my Colnago EPS, I have a Deda Zero100 stem in 110mm. The specs say it is an 82 degree stem. Looking at the stem, it has almost no rise to it.

Bar and fork clamp diameter

Alloy stems are relatively cheap and light weight so they are the most common model available. Carbon stems are lighter and can be incredibly stiff but they’re also way more expensive so usually favoured by racers or weight weenies. Old-school bikes had a quill stem. This was an inverted L-shape, with the shaft of the stem slotting down into the top of the fork’s steerer tube, and secured by an expander bolt with an (in most cases) Allen key head at its top. Most bar clamps are 4-bolt pattern which as well as being stiffer also helps spread out the pressure of the clamp across a greater area on the bar, which is something that carbon bar users will appreciate. Material